Gaston rebuffat biography

Gaston Rébuffat

French alpinist, mountain guide, and author

Gaston Rébuffat (French pronunciation:[ɡastɔ̃ʁebyfa]; 7 May 1921, Marseille – 31 May 1985, Paris) was a French alpinist, mountain guide, and author. He is well known as a member of the first expedition to summit Annapurna 1 in 1950 and the first man to climb all six of the great north faces of the Alps.[1][2] In 1984, he was made an officer in the French Legion of Honour for his service as a mountaineering instructor for the French military. At the age of 64, Gaston Rébuffat died of cancer in Paris, France. The rock-climbing technique, the "Gaston", was named after him. A photo of Rébuffat atop the Aiguille du Roc in the French Alps is on the Voyager Golden Records.[3][4]

Early life

Gaston Rébuffat was born on 7 May 1921 in Marseilles, France. He began climbing at the age of 14 in the Calanques near Marseilles.[1] At the age of 16, he became a member of the Club Alpin Français (French Alpine Club), where he was introduced to high altitude mo

Rébuffat Gaston

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Biografie:
Gaston Rébuffat
Vita *7. 5. 1921 Marseille; ab 1942 Bergführer in Chamonix; Ausbilder beim Alpinistenclub »Jeunesse et Montagne« (»Jugend und Berge«); seit 1947 Mitglied des »Groupe de Haute Montagne«; Autor mehrerer Bergbücher.
Chronik Gaston Rebuffet ist wohl eine der herausragendsten Persönlichkeiten des Alpinismus nach dem Zweiten Weltkrieg. Vor allem in den vierziger Jahren erregten seine Wiederholungen extrem schwieriger Routen Aufsehen. Seine ersten Kletterversuche startete er an den Klippen der Calanques, einem Kletterparadies nahe Marseille. Die Besteigung der Barre des Ecrins in den Dauphiné-Alpen wurde für ihn zum Schlüsselerlebnis. Hier erlag er der Faszination der Berge, die ihn nie mehr loslassen sollte. Seine bedeutendsten Unternehmungen sind Walkerpfeiler an den Grandes Jorasses (2. Beg. 1945), die erste Begehung des Südostsporns des Aiguille di Midi, die Sorgges-Nordwand (1945), die Dru-Nordwand (VI, A 1 ; 1946), die zweite Begehung der Piz-Badile-Nordostwand (VI-; 1947), die Nordwand der Großen Zinne (VI; 1949) die Mat

Gaston Rébuffat

From the Calanques to the Mont Blanc massif


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Gaston Rébuffat was born in Marseille on the 7th May 1921. He starts rock climbing in the near Calanques. The adventure of our future alpinist starts when he is 16. He joins the Club Alpin Français, where he meets Henry Moulin. As Henry has a car, Gaston will get the chance to go beyond his “dear Calanques”.  

In 1940 he joins « Jeunesse et Montagne ». Here he meets Lionel Terray, who will become his roped party companion for his first great climbs. Then, he moves to Chamonix with his friend Terray, where he will work as a farmer in Lionel’s farm, in les Houches. With such a fantastic basecamp for their adventures at altitude, they will soon become the best climbers of their generation. Gaston becomes famous for his style, of a rare elegance.

In 1942, despite his young age (21, while the minimum age is normally 23), Rébuffat’s dream finally comes true: he becomes a mountain guide. He starts to work as a guide in the summer and as a ski instructor in the winter. Anywhere he goes,

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